Magnetic Cones/Clasps

Materials:

25 grams PMC 3 
container PMC3  paste
PMC 3 syringe
1 5 or 6mm pearl or gemstone cab
1 5 or 6mm fine silver bezel cup
4 Hattie Sanderson's Maglettes
 2 part epoxy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 Roll out PMC3 4 cards thick.  Apply a small amount of olive oil to texture sheet and roll clay down to 3 cards thick while applying texture.

 

 Cut a 1 1/8” x 1” rectangle (adjust the size of the rectangles according the size and number of the beads and bead strands that you are using) and place on a curved surface to dry (a prescription bottle works well).  Repeat for a total of 4 rectangles.

 

 Roll out more clay 4 cards thick and roll or press down to 3 cards thick in a mold or on a rubber stamp to form the decorative overlay piece for the clasp.  Place the decorative piece on the same curved surface to dry.

 

 Use a sanding sponge to create flat surfaces on the edges of the rectangles.  

 

 Place some water on the edges of one rectangle and slip on the other.  

 

 Press the two edges together to form an elongated cylinder.

 

 Use a sanding sponge to refine the edges of the cylinder.

 

 Use a moistened finger to smooth the edges until all traces of the join have been smoothed away.  You can use some PMC3 syringe to fill any gaps if necessary.

 

 On an oval template sheet choose an oval that is slightly larger than the end of the cylinder.  Roll out some clay 4 cards thick and roll down to 3 cards thick while applying texture.  Cut out 2 oval pieces and allow to dry.

 

And for all of you who have requested a source for this template:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/chartpak-pickett-ellipses-templates/

Thanks to Pam Butler for finding this for us :)

 

 Apply water to the oval and slip to the edges of the cylinder.  Place the oval onto the end of the cylinder while pressing down gently and making sure it is centered.  Allow to dry.

 

 Use a sanding sponge to sand away the excess part of the oval until the edges are flush.  Use a moistened finger to smooth away all traces of the join.  Repeat all of the above for the second cylinder.

 

 Choose magnets that will fit the end of the cylinder.  Drill holes for 2 magnets in the ends of both cylinders.  Refine the edges of the decorative piece and drill a hole for the placement of the bezel cup, slightly larger than the diameter of the cup (I'm using a glass cab I made for this project.  It isn't standard size so I will be using a handmade bezel.)

 

 Place water on the magnet end of one cylinder and slip on the back of the decorative piece.  Place the decorative piece on the cylinder so that a portion of it hangs off  (this will overlap the second cylinder).  Press down lightly and allow to dry.

 

 

 Moisten the hole for the bezel cup with water and place some slip on the bottom of the cup.  Center the cup in the hole and press down lightly.  Allow dry completely.  (I have filled my handmade bezel with casting investment to maintain it's shape while firing).

 

 Fire at 1650 degrees for 2 hours in an upright position in a bed of vermiculite on a kiln shelf.  Allow to cool and then tumble for 30 minutes or burnish by hand.

 

 My holes for the magnets were a little to small, so I used a flex shaft to enlarge them (you could also use a small round file).  

 

 Now we'll make the inserts that will hold the bead strands in the "cones".  Make a thick patty of Sculpey Mold maker (I like the mold maker for this because after curing it is soft enough to easily trim to the correct size).  Use the end of a cone to mark the mold maker compound and cut out the inserts with a tissue blade.

 

 Use needle nose pliers to bend 2 small pieces of 18 gauge wire into "U" shapes and press into the inserts, leaving a small gap between to wire and the top of the mold maker compound.  Cure the compound according to manufacturers directions.

 

 I applied a LOS patina and then used a bristle disc on my flex shaft to remove most of it to emphasize the texture of the silver.

 

 I checked the height of my cab in the bezel and decided to raise the stone a bit using pieces cut from a CD sleeve.  I checked the height again, using a piece of dental floss to make sure the cab didn't get stuck in the bezel.

 

 Because the cab I was using is transparent glass, I put a small piece of fine silver foil into the bezel to reflect the light back up through the glass.  I set the cab in the bezel using a pusher and agate burnisher.

 

 Now we are ready to finish the inserts. Use a craft knife to trim the inserts if needed so that they will fit into the cones.  Remove the wires from the inserts, put a little two part epoxy on the ends of the wires  and replace in the insert.  Allow the epoxy to set up.

 

 Use a crimp tube and crimper to attach the bead strand to the wires.  Repeat for all the bead strands you are using.  My keishi peals were too large to fit into the cone, so I added a few small silver brads on the end.

 

 Use a toothpick to put a small amount of 2 part epoxy onto the interior walls of the top portion of the cone.  Use needle nose pliers to push the insert up into the top of the cone, leaving a small gap for the magnets.

 

 Place a small amount of two part epoxy into one of the holes and insert one of the magnets.  Allow to set up for a few minutes and the repeat for the other magnet. (Caution!  These magnets are very strong and can be dangerous if swallowed.  Keep them away from children and small animals. Magnetic clasps should not be used on jewelry for a person with a pacemaker).  Repeat for the other cone, making sure to check the the magnets are properly aligned.  Give the cones a final polish and...
 

Sit back and admire your work.